Gioco, 1312 S. Wabash Ave., Chicago

<b>Who eats:</b> Loop business types and conventioneers.

<b>Why eat:</b> Executive chef Geotano Ascione, who arrived in August, has installed a rustic Italian menu ("strictly on the Italian standards," he points out) that makes good use of the open kitchen's domed, wood-burning oven. The South Loop location is equidistant from the Loop and McCormick Place.

<b>Ambience:</b> Opened in 1999 in a Prohibition-era building that reputedly was a one-time speakeasy, Gioco (which means "game," as in a game you play) exudes rustic and gritty charm. The two-level space includes a sunken dining area within distressed brick walls. Focal points include stacks of wine bottles (alluding to the budget-friendly Italian wine list) and the open kitchen; the sidewalk cafe is a popular sunny-day destination.

<b>Dress code:</b> Business casual rules during the week.

<b>Noise factor:</b> When full, considerable. But lunch service is relatively undiscovered.

<b>Overheard:</b> Chef passionately discussing the menu.

<b>Service:</b> Our waitress seemed hesitant and inexperienced, though she could provide opinions on her favorite dishes.

<b>Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi:</b> Reception strong even in lower level; free Wi-Fi.

<b>Reservations:</b> 312-939-3870, or through opentable.com.

<b>Menu:</b> Compact assortment of seafood and vegetable appetizers, pizzas, pastas, and a few main plates. Dinner menu has more heft.

<b>Reliable options:</b> Thin, blistered-crust pizzas are delicious, particularly the wild mushroom and goat cheese version ($14) anointed with truffle oil. Beef and veal meatballs bathed in tomato sauce and basil ($9) are very good, as is a simple salad of steamed asparagus ($7) with chopped egg and Parmesan cheese. The pasta to try is the paccheri (think extra-large rigatoni) with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella and drizzled olive oil, a bit of Neapolitan heaven ($12).

<b>Expect to pay:</b> $46-$60 for two.

<b>Contacts: </b>giocorestaurant.com, or 312-939-3870.

<i>-- Phil Vettel</i>

chi-gioco-1312-s-wabash-ave-chicago-20130225

( Abel Uribe/Tribune / February 25, 2013 )

Who eats: Loop business types and conventioneers. Why eat: Executive chef Geotano Ascione, who arrived in August, has installed a rustic Italian menu ("strictly on the Italian standards," he points out) that makes good use of the open kitchen's domed, wood-burning oven. The South Loop location is equidistant from the Loop and McCormick Place. Ambience: Opened in 1999 in a Prohibition-era building that reputedly was a one-time speakeasy, Gioco (which means "game," as in a game you play) exudes rustic and gritty charm. The two-level space includes a sunken dining area within distressed brick walls. Focal points include stacks of wine bottles (alluding to the budget-friendly Italian wine list) and the open kitchen; the sidewalk cafe is a popular sunny-day destination. Dress code: Business casual rules during the week. Noise factor: When full, considerable. But lunch service is relatively undiscovered. Overheard: Chef passionately discussing the menu. Service: Our waitress seemed hesitant and inexperienced, though she could provide opinions on her favorite dishes. Cellphone reception/Wi-Fi: Reception strong even in lower level; free Wi-Fi. Reservations: 312-939-3870, or through opentable.com. Menu: Compact assortment of seafood and vegetable appetizers, pizzas, pastas, and a few main plates. Dinner menu has more heft. Reliable options: Thin, blistered-crust pizzas are delicious, particularly the wild mushroom and goat cheese version ($14) anointed with truffle oil. Beef and veal meatballs bathed in tomato sauce and basil ($9) are very good, as is a simple salad of steamed asparagus ($7) with chopped egg and Parmesan cheese. The pasta to try is the paccheri (think extra-large rigatoni) with San Marzano tomatoes, mozzarella and drizzled olive oil, a bit of Neapolitan heaven ($12). Expect to pay: $46-$60 for two. Contacts: giocorestaurant.com, or 312-939-3870. -- Phil Vettel