Step inside and Cafe Murano's multiple personalities are revealed. There's a lively bar with dinner seating. However, on my visits the music was so loud that eating and conversing was out of the question. Another entry opens up into a large room with little warmth or appeal. The casual patio that wraps around both rooms holds the best seats in the house — weather permitting. The menu is spot on for affordability and the scope allows something for every palate. And many dishes are offered in large family-style servings, an option I really like.
For entrees, the eggplant al forno ($12) was a simple layering of ricotta cheese, fresh spinach and marinara baked with mozzarella and served over capellini pasta. A little more ricotta would have helped the dish. For the bucatini Murano ($12), the chef tossed al dente noodles with mushrooms, prosciutto, pancetta, plump peas, and pecorino and Parmesan cheeses. A thin coat of olive oil helped the flavors and textures meld nicely. The ravioli ($11) came in a choice of meat or cheese. The marinara had more earthy notes with this dish. The side of meatballs ($3), however, was pallid in color and tight in texture, possibly from too much filler and being over mixed.
The veal saltimbocca alla Roma ($16) lacked the burst of flavor one expects from this Roman classic, but the eggs on top gave it a punch of richness.
Pizza lovers will like the hand-tossed creations. We sampled the carne Roma ($11 for 7-inch pie, $15 for 13-inch). It was generously studded with sausage, meatballs (meatier and better than our side order), pepperoni and pancetta. The mozzarella blanket that held it all together was light enough to let the other elements shine.
Desserts were fine, but the pineapple sorbet ($4) was oh-my-gosh dandy. The cooling indulgence had a subtle, gingery kick that was perfect for a steamy summer night.
Cafe Murano is restaurant intent on being many things. It succeeds quite well at times, but has some wrinkles to iron out.
Food Editor Heather McPherson can be reached at 407-420-5498 or hmcpherson@orlando sentinel.com.
The dish on dining
Cafe Murano
***■■
Where: 309 Cranes Roost Blvd., Altamonte Springs. From State Road 436 turn in to Uptown Altamonte complex and stay on the road as it winds around the waterfront. Cafe Murano is near the movie theater.
When: 11 a.m.-midnight daily.
Wheelchair access: Easy.
Extras: Outdoor seating; live music on occasion; large groups easily accommodated; to-go menu.
Entree range: $10-$26.
Beverages: Full bar.
Noise level: If there is live music, it can get uncomfortably loud for dining in the bar, slightly muffled in the dining room. Outdoor diners can hear the concerts at Crane's Roose at a perfect noise level.
Call: 407-834-5880.
Credit: All major.
Web: Cafe-Murano.com
Dining on a budget
Dinner for $15: Lemony veal piccata over pasta.
Dinner for $10: Grilled chicken Murano with tomatoes, olives, fruit, onions, nuts and bacon.
