Kissimmee's 3 Sisters Speakeasy recounts a tale on its website about siblings Ruth, Dodie and Fannie running a hidden bar during Prohibition. Patrons knew to knock three times and offer the password: apple pie.
Dodie would open the heavy wooden doors and guests might find cigar-chomping Ruth mixing cocktails and Fannie throwing back a few as she sloppily served drinks.
It's a fanciful back story for a place that holds its own in modern times.
There are a few cafe tables outside. The dining area inside wraps around the L-shaped full bar, which dominates the space. But food is not an afterthought here. The menu covers the key elements of a casual eatery: affordable sandwiches, flatbreads, sushi, appetizers and a handful of simple entrees.
I expected OK bar food, but I was pleasantly surprised by several menu items.
The sushi is pretty basic with a few signature rolls, including the 3 sisters roll ($9), eight pieces of crispy tempura-battered shrimp with cucumber topped with slices of steamed shrimp. The flavors were clean and the textures nicely balanced. The spicy tuna ($8) was good but lacked the full buttery flavor and fiery kick on the finish one expects from the traditional rich roll.
Unexpectedly, it was the side of seaweed salad ($3) that was most impressive. Fresh, tender and tossed with sliced cucumber and a vinegary dressing, it was top-notch and upstaged the sushi.
The pan-fried pot stickers ($7.50) were plump pouches of sweet pork served with a cucumber salad and ginger ponzu sauce. It's a shareable appetizer and the sauce had subtle citrus notes.
I had heard raves about sandwiches here and the Reuben ($9) and the mahi mahi ($12.50) did not disappoint.
The Reuben was a nice stack of corned beef, Swiss cheese and sauerkraut with Thousand Island dressing. The rye bread had a nice crack to the crunch from being grilled on high heat in butter.
The fish was lightly blackened and grilled just enough to retain a juicy texture.
Once again, it was a side that stole the show: French fries were hot and perfectly cooked with a golden crusty exterior and soft — not mushy — interior.
For entrees the Argentinean flank steak ($14) was marinated in chimichurri sauce and topped with a fresh pico de gallo. The acidic tomatoes of the topping and the fresh parsley flavor of the marinade married well with the tender beef.
Desserts include a brownie bar sundae ($5), bananas Foster cheesecake ($6) and a special of the day. But there was no ode to the apple pie password from the back story.
I did not sample any desserts but observed others indulging in the basic sundae at a nearby table. The savory servings here are ample enough for most diners not to have room for sweet finales.
Service was gracious and efficient and our food courses were nicely paced. And there's a nice small-town vibe to the restaurant.
I don't get to Kissimmee as much as I should. The downtown dining scene has a fair amount of small, independent eateries such as 3 Sisters Speakeasy.
But don't worry. You don't need to remember a password to get in the door.
hmcpherson@tribune.com or 407-420-5498
3 Sisters Speakeasy
