Q. Our lawn turned brown in spots after a recent frost. Is there anything I can do to make it green?
A. Believe it or not, lawn sprays are available to paint the grass green. These are commonly used with more northern lawns and especially zoysia that browns with the first frosts. Check with your local garden center or a commercial supplier to find a product for your lawn.
If painting the grass is not for you, an overseeding of ryegrass could turn the lawn green. These lawns are mowed a bit closer than normal and all clippings and debris are removed to prepare for seeding. Then scatter the seed uniformly over the lawn. Ryegrass is sown at 10 pounds for each 1,000 square feet of lawn. Use a lawn rake to move the seeds into contact with the soil and water to start germination. Winter feedings and mowings are eventually needed.
Many gardeners feel painting and overseeding are more work then they want at this time of the year. St. Augustine, centipede and bermuda lawns can regreen rather quickly if the weather turns warm again. These lawns only need normal waterings as growth of the new green blades begin. Gradually the brown can be mowed or raked away.
Q. I have an edible fig tree that is losing all its leaves. What could the problem be?
A. No problem here. Your fig tree is going through the normal leaf loss for late fall and winter. Most are completely bare at this time. Figs take a rest to mature their vegetative buds that begin growth during warm spring days. The leaf loss also helps the trees shed the foliage that is often infected with a rust fungus. Now is the time to remove and compost the fallen leaves. Also, replenish the mulch layer covering the root system.
Q. Our lawn has sprouted quite a few weeds. Is it possible to put down a weed-and-feed product on our St. Augustine at this time?
A. Cool-season weeds are plentiful and usually overgrow the lawn. Normally we skip the weed and feeds at this time of the year and use a liquid weed-control product instead. Extra fertilizer is not needed and if applied could encourage growth that might be affected by cold or cool-season diseases.
Sometimes the cool-season weeds can be mowed to reduce their competition with the lawn but most often grow right back. Many gardeners do look for a herbicide and select a liquid product available at garden centers. Do read the labels as not all products that list St. Augustine can be used on all varieties. Of all the products, the herbicide atrazine seems to be the safest for this lawn type. Follow the label information carefully to obtain good weed control and protect the environment.
Q. I planted cabbage. Do I need to tie the leaves up around the top to get a head?
A. You're only about 50 or so days from some good eating with little care needed. The plants produce their heads of green cabbage without any adjustment of the leaves. In the past, gardeners did tie the leaves of cauliflower up to cover forming heads in a process called blanching, but today's new varieties do it themselves. Your cabbage crop only needs a feeding or two plus waterings to produce the harvests.
Q. I am growing collards, cabbage, Brussels sprouts and peas. How often should I fertilize these plantings?
A. Monthly feedings are needed by all but the peas. This later crop is a legume that with the help of soil bacteria removes nitrogen from the air for plant growth. These plantings still need the other major and minor nutrients, so a feeding with a low-nitrogen fertilizer at planting and one during early growth is normally still needed. Apply a general garden fertilizer with other crops or consider use of a slow-release product that may only be needed once to produce the harvests.
Q. I want to move some of the plants in the landscape during the cooler months. I need to know the distance away from the trunk to dig the root ball.
A. Calculating the size of root balls is always a dilemma. The idea is to obtain as much of the root system as possible but still be practical, as moist soil is heavy and cumbersome. One general rule is to dig a root ball one foot in diameter for each inch of trunk diameter calculated 6 inches above the ground. Another technique is to form the root ball equal to one-half the spread of the plant.
No matter how you calculate the size of the root ball, make sure the soil is moist at the time of digging. It's probably best to give the plants a good watering a day or two before the move. While digging, be as careful as possible to keep the root balls intact. When the plants are relocated, keep the root systems moist with frequent waterings until the return of the summer rainy season.
